Sticking, Off-Track, or Hard to Lock?
We Repair Sliding Glass Doors.

The mortise lock is the rectangular lock body buried inside the edge of your sliding glass door. When the handle spins freely, the door won't latch, or the key won't turn, the internal cam or spring has failed — not the whole door. We stock OEM-grade mortise lock bodies, keepers, and strike plates for every major patio door brand (Pella, Andersen, Milgard, PGT, CGI, and 1980s–2000s Florida builder doors) and swap them out with a written 2-year warranty.

Worn bottom rollers are the #1 reason a sliding glass door gets hard to open. Florida's salt air corrodes the steel bearings, the wheels flatten, and the door starts dragging on the track — which then gouges the aluminum. We replace the tandem rollers with stainless steel salt-air-rated assemblies, cap or re-machine the damaged track, and re-shim the door so it glides with one finger. Most roller jobs are done same-visit on the truck.

Foggy glass, a cracked panel, or a shattered slider all point to the insulated glass unit (IGU) — the sealed double-pane inside the frame. The frame itself is fine; only the glass needs to come out. We measure on site, order a matching tempered or hurricane-impact IGU, and re-glaze the existing panel — typically 30–60% less than replacing the whole door. Emergency board-up available the same day for broken panels.